Carolina Jewelery Guns and Coins

Flora's Jewelry has been the fine jewelry store of choice for Eastern North Carolina and throughout the United States. Whether its for a wedding ring or engagement ring, Flora's Jewelry is a name you can trust. Every staff member of Flora's Jewelry is an expert in the field. You receive the benefit of years of training and experience, with a very personal touch.

You may thing that diamond weight is the easiest of the 4 Cs to determine (carat weight, clarity, color and cut). You just throw it on a scale and weigh it, right? The answer is, not always. There are several questions that you must ask yourself.

1. Is it the weight or the size of the diamond that is important to you? The two are not the same. A diamond that weighs less than one carat may look larger than one that weighs more than one carat. That's because in some cases the weight may e concentrated in the depth. A diamond that is shallow will look bigger but will handle light differently than a deeper diamond.

2. Would you sacrifice beauty for weight? Many times a diamond cutter will make a diamond a little shallower or a little deeper in order to make it weight more. That's because the weight is usually the first consideration for most people. It just sounds better to have a diamond that weights 1.00 carat rather than one that should weigh .98 carat. Extra weight can change the most desirable angles and therefore the amount of light that radiates from the stone. Carat weight is only a figure but an easily measurable one that friends and family will understand long before angles of refraction. The weight is definitely an issue that belongs in the balance.

3. Have you ever watched a diamond being weighed? Diamond jewelry that is already set tends to be rounded off to the nearest fraction. The tag on the ring says 3/4 carat but the actual weight may be .72 carat or a little under. Rounding off is an accepted practice and quite common. Sometimes the weight can be further off than that. That's called undercarating. At Flora's Jewelry, we have the same highly accurate carat scale that is used by Gemological Institute of America. It's one of the diamond discovery tools we make available to you. By placing your diamond on the scale, you can be confident of the exact weight and verify that the paper certification matches the diamond you are considering.

4. Would you wear a potato? Both diamonds and potatoes are sold by weight. Potatoes are sold by the pound. Diamonds are sold by carat weight. Why then can two diamonds weighing exactly the same sell for $2000 and $10,000? The difference is in the 4 Cs (clarity, color, carat weight and the quality of the cut). Comparing the $2000 diamond with the $10,000 diamond is like comparing potatoes with diamonds. A potato on your ring finger is probably not what you had in mind.

5. One potato, two potato, three potato, four? At the risk of taking the potato thing too far...unlike with potatoes, weight in diamonds affects rarity. The rarer the diamond, the higher the value. Two potatoes won't cost you any more per pound than one. With all other characteristics being equal, a diamond of two carat may be valued at four times a diamond weighing one carat. Because it is rarer in nature, owning it will also be rare among your friends.

How Cut Affects Brilliance
Cut is different than shape. Cut refers to how a diamond is proportioned. Shape refers to the outline of the diameter. Some popular shapes are round, oval, square, pear, rectangular, trillion and heart shaped. Each of these shapes can be cut in different styles of faceting. For instance, when a square shape is cut with triangular and kite shaped facets the cutting style is known as princess cut. When the same shape is cut with long rectangular facets, the style of cut is known as a step cut or an emerald cut. Round diamonds are usually cut in a style with 57 facets known as a brilliant cut.

Proportions determine brilliance. A properly cut diamond will reflect nearly 100% of the light entering the surface. If cut out of proportion, some of this light is lost through the bottom or side of the stone. If a diamond is cut too deep, light goes through the top and out the side, making the stone look dark. If it is cut too shallow, light goes straight through the top and out of the bottom making it look lifeless.

diamonds can dance with light. When light enters the flat surface of the table and exits through the angled facets of the crown, a flash of prismatic colors can occur. This is called "dispersion". When light bounces off the perfectly polished surfaces of diamond facets, a rapid fire spark of white reflected light can occur. This is called "scintillation". A diamond must be fashioned to catch every beam of light and choreograph its movement perfectly within the stone. If the dance is successful, the light is released back to surface where it is caught by the eyes of those who admire it. This total display of light is known as brilliance.

A round diamond is not always round. In fact, diameter is usually listed as two measurements, the most narrow to the widest. The flat surface facet called the table may look like it is in the center, but look again. It may not be. Facet corners should meet but they don't always. The point of the diamond, or culet, should be in the center but sometimes it's not. When facets are not shaped or positioned exactly how or where they are expected to be, light must find a different path. These variations in symmetry affect brilliance.

One thing affects the other. It's the combined sum of all the angles, depth, symmetry and polish that will determine how much sparkle your diamond will exhibit. For instance, a larger table will make the diamond look brighter but reduce the dispersion of colors from the smaller crown facets. The effects of a deep pavilion may be camouflaged by a larger table. These are decisions that are carefully considered by the highly trained cutter. In order to achieve the best proportions, he may have to remove up to 50% of the rough diamond.

Differences in Cut are easy to see but not so to define. A diamond that is well cut will seem to inhale light and breathe fire. A diamond that is deficient in cut will be obvious next to such a dazzler. Since there are so many variables in determining the ideal cut, grading in this category has been subject to years of debate. Listed below is a range that most experts would agree upon as the measurements of a beautifully cut diamond. Get the numbers but trust your eyes. Consider the cut with as much emphasis as you would the carat weight, clarity and color.

Round diamonds: table diameter: 53-59% of total stone diameter
Crown depth: 14-16.5% of total stone depth
Pavilion depth: 42-44% of total stone depth
Total depth: 58.7-62.3% of diameter
Crown angle: 33-36 degrees
Pavilion angle: 40-41.5 degrees
Girdle: 1.5-4.5% (very thin to thick)

Pear, heart, oval, marquise diamonds:
Table percentage of diameter: 53-62% excellent 62.1-64.0% very good
Total depth percentage of diameter: 59.0%-63.0% excellent, 63.1%-65.4% very good

Preferred shape (but personal preference rules): Pear: length=1.50-1.75 to width of 1.00  Marquise length=1.75-2.25 to width of 1.00
Heart length-0.98-1.02 to width of 1.00  Oval length=1.33-1.66 to width of 1.00

Emerald and radiant cuts:
Table percentage of diameter: 59.0-65.0% excellent 65.1-69.0% very good
Total depth percentage of diameter: 60-65% excellent 65.1-69.0% very good
Preferred shape (personal preference is the rule): length=1.5-1.75 to width of 1.00

Princess cuts:
Table percentage of diameter: 59.0-72.0% excellent 72.1-77.0% very good
Total depth percentage of diameter: 64-75% excellent, 75.1-80.0% very good

Color Choices
Color differences may not be obvious. If you've ever been to a paint store, you know that there are many shades of white. When a diamond is referred to as a white diamond, the color could fall within a range from icy winter white to warm summer white. These color differences can be very subtle and difficult to see. Therefore, they are judged and graded in controlled lighting conditions and compared to a master set for accuracy. The diamond is then assigned a letter grade from a color scale established by The Gemological Institute of America (GIA).

Why start at "D"? Before GIA introduced the GIA D-Z Color Grading Scale, there were many grading systems that were based on variable standards. A, B and C grades were widely used without clear definition. Other misinterpreted terms also existed such as "blue white". GIA wanted symbols that would not have any association with earlier systems. Thus the universally recognized GIA scale starts at the letter D.

At what point will color be noticeable? D color grade stands for the absolute absence of a body tint. The further down the alphabet, the more body color the stone has. However, it is extremely difficult to detect any difference between D, E and F. Grades that range between G and H will also appear colorless except when place right next to D. Not everybody's eyes are the same, but as a general guide most people will start to notice a very slight yellow tint in grades J, K, L, especially in larger stones.

Metal makes a difference. Icy white color grades of D through H are most stunning in white mountings in platinum or white gold. Warmer white color grades of I through Z are more desirable in yellow gold settings. A higher color grade will contrast nicely in a yellow metal. The tint of J-Z diamonds will appear more pronounced in white metals.

Color affects value. Colorless diamonds have always been in demand. The grade of "D" is extremely rare. Combine rarity with demand and a dramatic affect on value is the result. In fact two otherwise equally graded 1.00 carat diamonds of VS1 clarity and good cut can vary as much as 40% in value from the color grade of D to I.

Color affects beauty. The less color tint that a diamond has, the more pleasing is the effect of light returned from the stone. The rainbow flash of colors known as dispersion seems to spark more brilliantly in a white diamond. However, beauty is in the eyes of the beholder. A rich champagne color can make a stunning appearance in the right setting.

Diamonds can be pink. They can also be lemon yellow, green or violet. Diamonds have been discovered in almost every color of the rainbow. These alternative colors are known as fancy colors and can be very rare.

Color grades may vary between graders. Ideally the color grading scale should be a uniform reference tool. Unfortunately grading usually relies on the judgment of human eyes. Inaccurate comparisons are likely if you rely on grades given by different graders or labs. If you are comparing color grades form different stores, ask to see only diamonds that were graded by the same independent lab. For instance, compare diamonds graded by the European Geological Lab (EGL) only with other EGL graded stones.

Be clear on clarity

Clarity. Most diamonds have inclusions trapped inside them known as crystals, clouds and feathers. These markings are the characteristics that were captured in the diamond when the crystal was growing before dinosaurs roamed the earth. They tell the story of the diamond's natural formation. Clarity grades are a way to rank their influence on beauty, durability and rarity.

Note that each clarity grade can have an unlimited number of possible variations. No two will look alike. These are offered only as representations.

What determines the clarity grade given? A diamond is graded based on the overall visibility of the inclusions under 10 power magnification. Size, number, Position and type of inclusions determine the final grade. A large inclusion is more visible than a small one of the same type. However, a smaller inclusion that is darker may stand out more than a larger lighter inclusion. This higher visibility will earn a lower grade. A diamond with a large number of small inclusions may be graded the same as a diamond with fewer but larger inclusions.

The position of the inclusion can also have an affect on visibility. An inclusions that is in the center could earn the diamond a lower grade than one placed more inconspicuously toward the edge. Some types of inclusions that extend too close to the edge provide  weak spot that invites cleavage. Although less visible, they affect durability and necessitate a lower clarity grade.

What is the GIA grade scale? Offered here is a brief layman's translation:
FL of IF (flawless or internally flawless). Absolutely free from inclusions. Internally flawless may still have extremely minor surface blemishes.
VVS1-VVS2 (very very slightly inclusions). Contains tiny pinpoints that are nearly insignificant. They are very difficult to find by the trained eye under 10 power magnification. The number 1 refers to the upper end of the grade while 2 refers to the lower end.
VS1-VS2 (very slight inclusions) Within this range are diamonds with small inclusions that are still fairly difficult to locate by the trained eye.
SI1-SI2 (slight inclusions) contain inclusions that can be seen under 10x magnification with little difficulty by the trained eye. They are not visible to the unaided eye.
I1 (included-Grade 1) inclusions may be seen by the unaided eye and can be easily seen under 10 power magnification.
I2 (included - Grade 2) Inclusions are more serious that impact either visibility or durability.
I3 (Included - Grade 3) Both visibility and durability are significantly affected by inclusions in this grade.

How clarity affects value: Inclusions are sometimes referred to as nature's fingerprint. Nature doesn't produce many crystals without these characteristics. Diamonds in the highest clarity grades are extremely rare. Anything rare and in demand will increase in value. However, clarity is only of the criteria that will determine the value of a diamond. The overall beauty of a diamond plays a larger role in demand and therefore value. Beauty is determined by all four factors, known as the 4 Cs.

How clarity affects brilliance: When light enters a diamond, it is reflected and refracted out. If there is anything disrupting the flow of light in a diamond, a portion of light will be lost. As a result, brilliance may be diminished by some degree. The number of disruptions affect the amount of light lost. However, there are other more important factors that affect brilliance. Many consider clarity to have the least influence on a diamond's sparkle, especially in grades where inclusions are only apparent under magnification.

Clarity characteristics can identify your diamond: No two diamonds are alike. Clarity characteristics can not be easily altered when they are deep inside your diamond. They are like birthmarks like the included garnet crystal that nature left inside the diamond pictured here. Laser engraved incriptions on the girdle edge of a diamond are often used to identify a diamond but they can be polished off.

How can you judge the accuracy of a clarity grade: Since grading is based on expert opinion, the clarity grade of one appraiser may differ from another appraiser. If you are comparing grades, all diamonds should be graded by the same appraiser or lab. Reputable labs include GIA (Gemological Institute of America), EGL (European Gemological Laboratory), AGS (American Gem Society).

Comparing grades verses comparing diamonds: Grades don't always tell the whole story. You must also look at the diamonds. The more experience you get looking at diamonds under magnification, the less reliant you are on grades. Get to know what to expect with a specific clarity grade. It's easy to be your own expert. Examine any diamond that you are considering with 10 power magnification or more.

Mills Jewelers offers Gemvision diamond viewing: Our camera is connected to a monitor where you can view diamonds at up to 60 power magnification. It's easy to view clarity differences on the video screen. We can print a full color picture of whatever is on the screen for you to take with you for comparison. You'll enjoy the discovery. Stop in and gain the confidence to choose the perfect diamond to represent your love.